The E14 error code means the control board is receiving no signal at all from the NTC temperature sensor — the circuit is open. Unlike E10 (unstable signal) or E12 (short circuit), E14 is a clean break: the connector is fully unplugged, a wire in the harness has snapped, or the sensor element itself has burned open. A hard reset will not clear a true E14 — the physical open circuit must be found and repaired. The dishwasher will not heat water until this is resolved.
The NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) thermistor monitors water temperature throughout every wash cycle. Its resistance decreases smoothly as temperature rises — a known, predictable curve the control board uses to manage the heating element, confirm sanitization, and time the drying phase. When the control board sees infinite resistance on the NTC circuit — the electrical equivalent of a broken wire — it logs E14 and stops all heating immediately.
E14 is a definitive open-circuit fault. There is no signal to be erratic (that would be E10) and no short to zero ohms (that would be E12). The board is simply receiving nothing — like a phone call where the line is dead rather than crackling. This distinction is useful because it tells a technician exactly what to look for: a physical break in the sensor circuit, not an aging component producing weak signals.
The most important consequence: the dishwasher cannot heat water at all while E14 is active. Some models halt the cycle entirely; others allow the cycle to complete with cold water. Either way, dishes will not be properly cleaned or sanitized. Do not continue using the machine until E14 is resolved.
Turn the dishwasher off and unplug it completely, or trip its circuit breaker. Wait a full 60 seconds. Although a true open-circuit E14 will not clear from a reset alone, this step rules out a one-time control board misread before anything else. It also safely discharges the capacitors before you restore power.
Start a Quick Wash or Rinse cycle and watch the display. If E14 appears within the first minute — before the water has had any chance to heat — the circuit was already open before the cycle started. Note this timing; it tells the technician the break is a physical open, not a heat-induced failure, and points toward the connector or harness rather than a burned-out sensor.
If the cycle appears to run but dishes emerge cold and uncleaned, the heating element is confirmed inactive. Bring this observation to the technician — it corroborates E14 and rules out a display glitch showing a false code.
A technician will check the NTC circuit in order: first the connector (reseat and retest), then continuity of the harness wires with a multimeter, then resistance of the sensor itself at room temperature. A healthy NTC on most Bosch models reads approximately 8,000–12,000 ohms at 20°C — an open-circuit sensor reads infinite resistance (OL on a multimeter). This sequence is quick and means the correct part is identified before anything is ordered.
E14 almost always requires professional service to locate and repair the open circuit. Call us if:
E09 (heating element) — both faults together suggest a wiring harness problem affecting multiple componentsSame-day appointments across Boston. Certified Bosch technicians with diagnostic tools, common parts on the truck, and a 90-day warranty on every repair.
In rare cases — if E14 appeared due to a one-time control board misread rather than a true physical break — a hard reset will clear it. But unlike E10, which is an intermittent fault that can clear and return, E14 represents a definitive open circuit. If the connector is unplugged or a wire is broken, no amount of resets will reconnect it. If E14 returns immediately after a hard reset, the physical break needs to be found and repaired.
E10 means the NTC sensor is producing a signal, but that signal is erratic and fluctuating outside the acceptable range — an intermittent fault that often clears temporarily after a reset. E14 means the control board is receiving absolutely no signal from the NTC circuit — the resistance is infinite, indicating a complete open circuit. E14 is typically a consistent fault that appears immediately on startup and does not clear with resets.
Yes. The open circuit can be at any point in the NTC circuit: the sensor connector, a wire in the harness, or the NTC input circuit on the control board itself. A technician checks these in sequence — connector first, then harness continuity, then sensor resistance — before assuming the sensor has failed. In a significant number of E14 cases, the fix is simply reseating a connector that worked free, with no parts cost.
Some Bosch models will halt the cycle immediately when E14 is detected; others allow the cycle to run but without heating. In either case, dishes will not be properly cleaned or sanitized — the water remains cold throughout. Do not use the dishwasher as a substitute for proper cleaning while E14 is active.
If the NTC connector was simply unplugged, the repair is a labor-only visit — $80 to $120 in the Boston area. If the NTC sensor itself has failed open, replacement typically runs $110 to $210 parts and labor combined. The sensor part is $20 to $45; the remainder is diagnostic time and labor to access and replace it in the sump assembly.