Samsung Washer Error Codes — By Problem.
Samsung washer error codes grouped into 9 categories matching Samsung's official documentation. Find your code or browse by symptom.
26
Codes Listed
Top & Front
Load Models Covered
9
Problem Categories
May '26
Last Updated
26
Codes Listed
9
Problem Categories
Top & Front
Load Models Covered
May '26
Last Updated
How Samsung Error Codes Work
Reading Samsung Washer Codes
Samsung uses two coding generations on its washers. Pre-2017 models display codes ending in E — for example 4E (water supply), 5E (drainage), LE (leakage). Post-2017 models shifted to codes ending in C — same fault category, new letter: 4C, 5C, LC. Functionally identical, just generational naming.
Codes with a numeric prefix and a sub-digit (like 4E1, 4E2, 1 1C) drill into a specific sub-fault within the family. 4E1 tells you the hot-water inlet specifically failed; 4E2 tells you hot and cold lines are swapped.
Each category below groups all Samsung washer codes that share a root cause. If you only know the symptom — "won't drain," "won't spin," "leaking" — start at the matching category. If you have a specific code, the sticky bar above jumps you straight there.
Every code links to a full Promix diagnostic page with the most common cause, the parts typically involved, and step-by-step DIY checks before you call us.
Fast Reset
Soft Reset
Press Start/Pause and hold 5 seconds
Hard Reset
Unplug power for 1 full minute, then plug back in
Diagnostic Mode
SmartThings app · or hold Temp + Soil 3 sec
Check First
Water valves open · drain hose unkinked · door fully closed
Won't Clear?
The fault is real — find the category below
Water Supply — Not Filling
3 codes · Washer won't fill, or fills very slowly
Water is not entering the washer correctly. Usually the supply valves, hoses, or inlet filters — almost always homeowner-fixable before booking service.
First check: Confirm both hot and cold supply valves behind the washer are fully open. Check that hoses are not bent or kinked. Do not use Flood Safe hoses.
Drainage — No Drain
4 codes · Water won't drain or drains too slowly
Water is not leaving the washer in time. Most often a blocked pump filter — the single most common Samsung washer issue in Boston households.
First check: First check: Place a tray under the front-bottom access panel, slowly unscrew the filter cap to drain residual water, then pull and clean the filter of lint, coins, and debris.
Unbalanced Load
3 codes · Drum can't reach spin speed safely
The load is too heavy on one side to spin safely. Untangle and redistribute clothes in the drum — usually no repair needed.
First check: Open the door, untangle and rearrange laundry evenly around the drum. Add a towel to balance a single heavy item. Close and restart the spin cycle.
Water Level / Leakage
3 codes · Leak detected or water level sensor fault
Moisture is detected where it doesn't belong, or there's an issue with the water level sensor. LC and LE mean the anti-flood sensor at the base has been triggered by actual water.
First check: Look for evidence of a leak around and under the washer. Check that supply hoses and drain hose are not kinked. Run an empty cycle — if suds appear, too much detergent is the cause.
Overflow
2 codes · Too much water in the drum
The washer has detected water above the safe fill level. Usually a stuck-open inlet valve. Unplug the washer immediately and turn off the water supply valve.
First check: Unplug the washer immediately. If water continues to enter after power is cut, close the supply valve behind the washer. Do not run again until the inlet valve is inspected.
Door Error
3 codes · Door not detected as closed and locked
The washer won't start unless the door is sensed as latched. Check for clothing caught in the seal, ensure the latch is not damaged, and close the door firmly.
First check: Open the door, inspect the rubber seal all the way around for any clothing caught between door and gasket. Close firmly — you should hear the latch click.
Heater Error
3 codes · Water heating element or circuit fault
The internal water heater has failed or a thermal safety cutoff has tripped. Do not continue cycles that require heat until this is resolved.
First check: Run a Hard Reset (unplug 1 full minute). There is no homeowner-accessible reset for heater faults. If the code returns after restart, service is required.
Temperature Sensor Error
3 codes · Thermistor signal out of range or no signal
The temperature sensor (thermistor) is giving a reading the control board can't use. The washer will not heat water reliably until the sensor is replaced.
First check: Run a Hard Reset (unplug 1 full minute). Temperature sensor faults rarely self-clear — if the code returns, thermistor replacement is the typical fix.
Motor Error
2 codes · Motor or motor sensor fault
The motor's Hall-effect sensors, which report drum speed and direction to the control board, are giving invalid readings. Component-level diagnosis required.
First check: First check: Run a Hard Reset (unplug 1 full minute). If the code reappears immediately after restart, the motor or its sensor needs replacement — book service.
Homeowner-fixable in under 30 minutes
Requires diagnostic tools or part replacement
Safety or major fault — stop using and call
Homeowner-fixable in under 30 minutes
Homeowner-fixable in under 30 minute
Requires diagnostic tools or part replacement
Requires diagnostic tools or part replacement
Status indicator, not a real fault
DIY or Call a Pro?
How to tell which Samsung error codes you can clear yourself — and which need a technician.
Start with a 10-minute check if you see…
These codes have a ~80% chance of resolving with basic checks:
4E / 4C — open the water supply valves and unkink the inlet hoses
5E / 5C / Sud — clean the pump filter at the front-bottom of the washer
UE — redistribute the laundry load, add a balancing item
dE / dC — close the door firmly, clear the seal of caught fabric
4E2 — confirm hot and cold supply hoses are connected to the correct inlets
4E1 — check that the hot water valve is fully open
Skip the DIY and call us for…
Any code in these categories needs diagnostic tools or component replacement:
Critical: LE / LC / LC1 / H1 — leak or overheat, stop using immediately
Heater: HE / H2 / E5 — element or thermal fuse replacement
Motor / PCB: 3E family, EA, AC, bE, CE — board-level diagnosis
Door lock: dE1 / dE2 — switch or motor replacement
Any code that returns within minutes after a full power-cycle reset
Any code accompanied by burning smell, smoke, or unusual noise
You can probably fix it yourself if…
The code falls in this list and the appliance is otherwise functional:
4E / 4C — check water supply valves and inlet hose for kinks
5E / 5C — clean the drain filter and inspect the drain hose
UE — redistribute the laundry load and restart
dC — fully close the door, check for obstructions in the seal
9E (dishwasher) — verify water supply pressure
39E — refill ice maker water line or check shutoff valve
88 — usually clears after a power event reset (unplug 1 min)
You should book a technician if…
The code indicates a hardware fault, or you see any of these signs:
HE (dryer), LC / OC (dishwasher) — Critical: stop using immediately
OE, tE, dF, t5, E27 — sensor or motor faults require parts diagnosis
22E, 5E (refrigerator), 33E — cooling system or compressor risk
C-d1, C-F0 (oven) — control board or door latch replacement
Code returns after a full reset and basic checks
SmartThings shows the code persistently across cycles
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