Why does my dryer keep stopping?

If your dryer stopped working or keeps shutting off before the cycle finishes, don't panic. This is one of the most common appliance problems, and it usually comes down to a few predictable causes, many of which you can fix yourself.

Here are the most likely reasons your dryer keeps stopping and what to do about each one.

Most Common Reasons Your Dryer Keeps Stopping

Think of this section as a troubleshooting checklist. Work through each cause in order there's a good chance you'll find your answer before you reach the bottom of the list.

1. Clogged or Blocked Lint Trap and Exhaust Vent

A restricted exhaust vent is the single most common reason a dryer shuts off mid cycle. Here's what happens: when hot, moist air can't escape through the vent, the temperature inside the drum climbs fast. To prevent a fire, the dryer's built-in safety thermostat or thermal fuse trips and shuts the machine off.

Start by pulling out the lint screen and cleaning it thoroughly not just a quick swipe, but a full wash under running water if it's coated in residue from dryer sheets. Then check the flexible vent hose behind the dryer for kinks, clogs, or crushing. Finally, go outside and inspect the exterior vent flap. If it's blocked with lint or barely opens when the dryer runs, that's your culprit.

Dryer vents should be professionally cleaned at least once a year, and more often if you run several loads a day. Beyond causing your dryer to stop, clogged vents are a leading cause of household fires in the U.S. Fire Administration attributes thousands of dryer fires each year to lint buildup.

2. Overheating and Thermal Fuse Failure

Every dryer has a thermal fuse, a small, one-time-use safety device designed to blow if the internal temperature gets dangerously high. Once the fuse blows, the dryer either stops running entirely or continues to tumble without producing heat. This is also one of the top reasons people report that my dryer is not heating: the drum spins as usual, but the air stays cold.

A blown thermal fuse is almost always a symptom of an underlying problem, usually a blocked vent (see above) or a malfunctioning thermostat. Replacing the fuse without fixing the root cause means you'll be replacing it again in a few weeks. You can test a thermal fuse with a multimeter for continuity. They're inexpensive parts typically $5 to $20 but getting to them usually requires removing the back panel of the dryer.

If your dryer stopped working after running fine for a while and now won't start at all, a blown thermal fuse is the first component to check.

3. Faulty Door Latch or Door Switch

Dryers are designed to stop immediately if the door opens during a cycle. The door switch is a small mechanism that tells the control board whether the door is securely closed. Over time, the latch can wear down or the switch itself can fail, sending a false signal that the door is open even when it isn't.

Here's a quick test: close the dryer door and listen for a firm click. If you don't hear one, or if the door feels loose or doesn't catch properly, the latch is likely worn out. If the latch clicks fine but the dryer still stops randomly, the switch behind it may have failed electrically.

Door switches are inexpensive and usually straightforward to replace with a screwdriver and a few minutes of work. If you're comfortable popping off the top panel of your dryer, this is a solid DIY fix.

4. Broken or Slipping Drive Belt

Most dryers use a long, thin rubber belt that wraps around the drum and connects to a motor pulley. This belt is what makes the drum spin. If the belt snaps, the dryer will stop immediately often with a noticeable thud. If it's stretched or slipping, the dryer may stop intermittently or fail to start altogether.

To check, open the dryer door and try spinning the drum by hand. If it spins freely with little resistance, the belt is likely broken. In a working dryer, you should feel some tension from the belt and motor assembly. Belt replacement is one of the more accessible dryer repairs for handy homeowners, but it does require partially disassembling the dryer to thread the new belt around the drum, idler pulley, and motor shaft.

5. Defective Motor or Motor Overheating

The drive motor is the workhorse of your dryer. If it's starting to fail, it may overheat partway through a cycle, trigger its internal overload protector, and shut down. The telltale pattern is a dryer that runs for 10 to 20 minutes, stops, and then starts again after cooling for a while only to stop again.

A failing motor may also produce a humming or buzzing noise when you try to start the dryer. If you're hearing unusual sounds along with the stopping, the motor is the likely suspect. This is typically a repair for a professional, as motor replacement involves accessing internal components and reconnecting electrical wiring.

6. Control Board or Timer Malfunction

On newer dryers with electronic controls, a glitchy control board can cause all kinds of erratic behavior, ending cycles early, shutting off randomly, or refusing to start certain programs. On older mechanical-timer dryers, a worn timer can similarly fail to advance through the cycle, causing the dryer to stop prematurely.

Control board issues are usually a diagnosis of elimination. If you've checked airflow, mechanical components, and the thermal fuse and everything checks out, the control board or timer is the next logical place to look. Replacement boards for popular dryer brands typically cost between $100 and $250 for the part alone.

Recommend: Sometimes a dryer shuts off mid-cycle because it fails to maintain proper temperature. If you suspect a heating issue, read our detailed article on why your dryer is not heating.

What to Do When Your Dryer Stopped Working Completely

If your dryer won't start at all, not even a hum or a light on the control panel, the issue may be simpler than you think. Before you assume the worst, run through this quick checklist.

First, check your electrical panel. Dryers run on a 240-volt circuit that uses a double breaker. It's possible for one leg of the breaker to trip while the other stays on, which can cause confusing symptoms like a control panel that lights up but a drum that won't spin. Flip the breaker fully off, then back on.

Second, inspect the power cord and outlet. Pull the dryer out and check the plug for scorching or a loose fit. If you have a voltage tester, confirm the outlet is delivering power.

Third, test the start switch. On some dryers, the push-to-start switch can wear out mechanically even when the rest of the machine is fine.

If still your dryer stopped working and none of these simple checks resolve the issue, the culprit is usually a blown thermal fuse, a failed motor, or a defective control board all of which we covered in the previous section.

When Your Dryer Runs but Isn't Heating

This is a separate but related problem that sends a lot of people searching for answers. If my dryer is not heating but the drum still tumbles normally, the issue is isolated to the heating circuit rather than the motor or mechanical components.

The most common cause is a blown thermal fuse, which we discussed earlier. When the fuse blows on many dryer models, it specifically disables the heating element while allowing the motor to continue running. The result is a dryer that tumbles your clothes in room-temperature air which is essentially useless.

Other causes include a burned-out heating element (on electric dryers), a faulty gas igniter or gas valve solenoid (on gas dryers), or a malfunctioning cycling thermostat that fails to signal the heater to turn on. Electric dryer heating elements typically cost $30 to $80 and can be replaced with basic tools, while gas dryer components should generally be handled by a qualified technician due to the safety considerations involved.

DIY Fixes vs. Dryer Repair Near Me ?

Not every dryer repair requires a service call. Here's a practical breakdown of what most homeowners can handle themselves versus what's better left to a pro.

If you're unsure which category your problem falls into, don't hesitate to call our dryer repair technician for a quick consultation. Our team can walk you through what's going on with your dryer, help you figure out whether it's a simple fix you can handle yourself, and give you an honest recommendation on next steps before you spend a dime on parts or repairs.

Getting Your Dryer Back on Track

A dryer that keeps stopping is frustrating, but it's almost always a solvable problem. The key is working through the possibilities methodically: start with airflow, clean the lint trap, inspect the vent, and check the exterior exhaust. If that doesn't resolve it, move on to mechanical components like the door switch and drive belt. From there, look at the thermal fuse, heating element, and finally the motor or control board.

More often than not, the fix is simpler than you'd expect. A surprising number of dryer service calls come down to nothing more than a clogged vent or a tripped breaker. Start with the basics, and there's a good chance you'll have warm, dry laundry again before the day is over.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my dryer keep shutting off after a few minutes?

The most likely cause is overheating due to a clogged lint trap or blocked exhaust vent. When the dryer can't expel hot air, the internal thermostat or thermal fuse trips as a safety measure, shutting the dryer off after just a few minutes of operation. Clean the lint screen, inspect the vent line for obstructions, and check the exterior vent cap.

Can a clogged dryer vent cause the dryer to stop?

Absolutely. A clogged vent is the number one reason dryers shut off mid-cycle. Restricted airflow causes the dryer to overheat, triggering safety mechanisms that cut power to the machine. Beyond causing your dryer to stop, a clogged vent is a serious fire hazard and should be cleaned promptly.

Why is my dryer running but not drying clothes?

If the drum is spinning but your clothes come out damp, the heating system is likely the issue. The most common culprit is a blown thermal fuse, which disables the heating element while allowing the motor to run. On electric dryers, a burned-out heating element can also cause this. On gas dryers, look at the igniter or gas valve solenoids.