The E24 error code means the dishwasher cannot drain water — the drain path from the tub to your home's plumbing is obstructed somewhere. Unlike E22 (which targets the internal filter) and E23 (which targets the pump motor), E24 specifically points to the drain path beyond the pump — the drain hose, the connection at the sink or garbage disposal, the air gap (if fitted), or improper installation. Start by cleaning the filter, checking for a kinked hose, and inspecting the sink drain connection — these three free checks resolve the majority of E24 errors in under 20 minutes.
Filter / sump blocked. Water can't pass through the filter assembly — fix is cleaning the three-part filter. Pump and hose are typically fine.
Drain path blocked. Water passes through the filter and pump but can't exit through the hose, sink connection, or disposal — the blockage is downstream of the pump.
Bosch's official description of E24 is that the dishwasher cannot drain properly due to the drain filter or pump being blocked — but in practice E24 most reliably points to a blockage downstream of the pump: the drain hose, the connection point at the sink drain, the garbage disposal inlet, or the air gap device if one is installed. The pump activates and tries to push water out, but meets resistance it cannot overcome, and the control board raises E24.
E24 can appear at the beginning or end of a wash cycle. If it shows early, the machine couldn't drain residual water from the previous cycle before starting. If it appears toward the end, the machine ran the wash normally but failed to drain the final water load. Either way, you will typically see standing water pooled at the bottom of the tub when you open the door.
E24 is also the most common error code on newly installed dishwashers — two installation-specific causes (a garbage disposal knock-out plug left in place, and an incorrectly positioned drain hose without a proper high loop) account for a large share of E24s seen on machines that are only a few days old. If your dishwasher is new and showing E24 immediately, check the disposal plug before anything else.
E24 most commonly involves stages ③–⑤. E22 targets stage ①. E23 targets stage ②.
Press and hold Start/Reset for 3–5 seconds to cancel the active cycle. If the machine still has power to run a brief drain, it will attempt one — let it complete. Then open the door and use towels or a sponge to remove any standing water from the tub floor before you begin inspecting the drain components.
Even though E24 targets the drain path rather than the filter, a badly clogged filter contributes to back-pressure across the whole system and is Bosch's official first check. Remove and rinse all three filter components — the cylindrical mesh filter, the flat coarse filter, and the fine mesh floor panel — under warm running water with a soft brush. Reinstall the cylindrical filter clockwise until it locks.
If the dishwasher is newly installed and the drain hose connects to a garbage disposal, open the cabinet under the sink and look at the disposal's dishwasher drain inlet — a small nipple on the side of the disposal body. If the dishwasher drain hose is attached but E24 appeared on the very first run, the plastic knock-out plug inside the inlet almost certainly was not removed. Disconnect the hose clamp, remove the hose, and use a screwdriver and hammer to knock the plug into the disposal, then retrieve it from inside. Reconnect the hose and run a test cycle.
Pull the dishwasher out from under the counter 6–12 inches and trace the drain hose from the back of the machine to where it enters the cabinet wall or connects under the sink. Look for any sharp bends, kinks, or places where the hose is compressed against the cabinet wall or floor. Straighten any bends carefully. Push the machine back in slowly, watching that the hose doesn't re-kink as it tucks away. The hose should curve gently with no angles tighter than a broad arc.
Open the cabinet under the sink and confirm the drain hose rises up to at least the height of the countertop underside before descending to the drain connection — this is the "high loop." If the hose runs directly downward from the machine to the sink drain without rising first, water can siphon back into the tub after each drain cycle. Secure the hose at its highest point with a cable tie or clamp attached to the underside of the counter. If an air gap device is installed instead of a high loop, confirm it is clear (see next step).
If an air gap cap sits on the countertop beside the sink, unscrew or unclip its cap and remove the inner cap beneath it. Mineral scale and debris collect here and can fully block the passage. Clean out any buildup with a small brush or bottle brush. Also disconnect the drain hose where it attaches to the garbage disposal or sink tailpiece and inspect the opening — grease and debris accumulate here over years of use. Clear any blockage with a brush or by running the hose through with water.
With the dishwasher fully unpowered, reach carefully into the sump cavity through the filter opening (rubber gloves on) and try to rotate the pump impeller by hand. It should turn with a small, smooth amount of resistance. If it feels rough, gritty, or seized, debris is jammed in the pump. Reach in and remove what you can feel, or use long-nose pliers to extract glass or hard fragments. A pump that hums during drain but moves no water almost certainly has a jammed impeller.
Reassemble all filters, reconnect any hose you disconnected, restore power, and run a short rinse cycle while staying beside the machine. Listen for the drain pump activating near the end of the cycle and watch under the sink for proper water flow out of the drain hose. If the cycle completes and E24 does not return, the drain path blockage has been cleared.
The drain path checks above resolve most E24 errors. Book a professional repair if:
Same-day appointments across Boston. Certified Bosch technicians, common parts stocked on the truck, and a 90-day warranty on every repair.
All three are drain-system faults, but they each point to a different stage of the drain path. E22 means the internal filter assembly is blocked — the fix is cleaning the three-part filter. E23 means the drain pump motor has failed or its impeller is jammed — the pump cannot spin. E24 means the downstream drain path is blocked — the pump is working but water can't exit through the drain hose, the sink connection, the air gap, or the garbage disposal. Understanding which code you have tells you exactly where to look.
This is almost always one of two installation issues. First and most common: the garbage disposal knock-out plug was not removed before the drain hose was connected. Every new garbage disposal ships with a plastic plug sealing the dishwasher drain inlet — if the installer forgot to remove it, no water can drain at all. Second: the drain hose was not given a proper high loop and water siphons back into the tub. Both are free to fix and take only a few minutes to check.
No — E24 means the machine cannot drain properly, which means contaminated wash water will remain in the tub and could overflow into the base tray or cause hygiene problems. Do not run further cycles until the drain blockage is identified and cleared.
A high loop is an installation requirement where the drain hose is routed up to the underside of the kitchen countertop before descending to the sink drain connection. This elevation prevents used water from back-siphoning from the sink drain back into the dishwasher tub between cycles. Without a high loop (or an air gap device, which serves the same purpose), dirty water can re-enter the machine, and the repeated back-fill can cause E24 to appear even when nothing else is wrong.
Cleaning the filter, straightening a kinked hose, removing a disposal knock-out plug, or clearing an air gap all cost nothing. A replacement drain hose runs $15–$40 as a DIY part. Professional repair in the Boston area for drain pump impeller clearing, check valve repair, or pump motor replacement typically runs $110–$300, parts and labor included.