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The 4E error code means your Samsung washer is not receiving water correctly. In most cases the cause is simple — a water supply valve that isn't fully open, or a kinked inlet hose. This is usually a 10-minute DIY fix with no tools and no parts. If the code persists after checking the supply, the water inlet valve may have failed and need replacement.
Time
10–15 min
Difficulty
Easy
Tools
None needed
DIY Cost
Free
Time
10–15 min
Tools
None needed
Difficulty
Easy
DIY Cost
Free
What the 4E Code Means
Your Samsung washer runs a check at the start of every cycle to confirm water is entering the drum at the expected rate. When it doesn't detect enough water within a set time window, it stops the cycle and displays 4E (or 4C on newer models — the same fault, different display generation).
This is a protective code, not a sign of major damage. The washer is telling you it can't get water, and it would rather pause than run a cycle dry. The cause is almost always somewhere in the water supply path: the household valves, the inlet hoses, the inlet filter screens, or — less commonly — the washer's internal water inlet valve.
Because the most common causes are external to the machine, 4E is one of the most DIY-friendly codes on a Samsung washer. Work through the steps below in order before assuming a part has failed.
Supply valve not fully open. The hot or cold water valve behind the washer is partially closed or was never opened fully after an install or move. Very common
Kinked or bent inlet hose. The supply hose behind the washer is pinched against the wall or twisted, restricting flow. Common
Clogged inlet filter screen. Sediment has built up in the small mesh filters where the hoses connect to the washer. Common
Low household water pressure. A pressure issue affecting the whole home, or a recently shut-off main that wasn't fully reopened. Occasional
Failed water inlet valve. The washer's internal solenoid valve has failed and no longer opens to admit water. Needs a technician
Turn off and unplug the washer
Power the washer off and unplug it, or switch off its circuit breaker. This clears the current error state and is a safe starting point for checking the water connections.
Check both water supply valves are fully open
Locate the hot and cold water valves on the wall behind the washer. Turn both fully counter-clockwise to the open position. Even if a valve looks open, turn it to confirm — a partially open valve is the single most common cause of this code.
Note: Many washers use both lines even on cold-only cycles. If the hot line is not connected or not open, you can still get a 4E error.
Inspect the inlet hoses for kinks
Pull the washer out far enough to see the hoses. Straighten any bends, twists, or pinch points where a hose meets the wall or the back of the machine. The hose should run in a smooth curve with no sharp angles.
Check both water supply valves are fully open
Turn off the supply valves, then unscrew the inlet hoses from the back of the washer. Inside each connection point is a small mesh filter screen. Check for sediment or debris and rinse the screens clean. Reconnect the hoses firmly and reopen the valves.
Tip: Take a photo before disconnecting so you can match hot-to-hot and cold-to-cold when reconnecting.
Restore power and run a rinse cycle
Plug the washer back in and start a short rinse or quick-wash cycle. Watch the first minute — water should enter the drum steadily. If the cycle runs without the code, the issue is resolved.
If the code returns — the inlet valve has likely failed
If 4E reappears after working through every step above, the washer's internal water inlet valve has most likely failed. This is a sealed electrical component that requires diagnostic confirmation and replacement — a job for a technician.
Same-day appointments across Boston and surrounding neighborhoods. Certified technicians. 90-day warranty on every repair. No diagnosis surprises.
Most 4E errors are resolved with the steps above. Book a professional repair if:
The code returns after you've confirmed the valves, hoses, and filter screens are all clear
You can hear the inlet valve buzzing or clicking but no water enters
Water enters extremely slowly even with everything open and clean
You're not comfortable disconnecting the supply hoses yourself
If You Fix It Yourself
$0
Opening valves, straightening hoses, and cleaning filter screens requires no parts and no tools.
Inlet Valve Replacement
$130–$210
Opening valves, straightening hoses, and cleaning filter screens requires no parts and no tools.
If You Fix It Yourself
$0
Opening valves, straightening hoses, and cleaning filter screens requires no parts and no tools.
Inlet Valve Replacement
$130–$210
Opening valves, straightening hoses, and cleaning filter screens requires no parts and no tools.
Same-day appointments across Boston and surrounding neighborhoods. Certified technicians. 90-day warranty on every repair. No diagnosis surprises.
Same-day appointments across Boston. Certified Samsung technicians, common
parts stocked on the truck, and a 90-day warranty on every repair.
Many Samsung wash cycles draw from both the hot and cold supply lines regardless of the temperature setting. If the hot water valve is closed or the hot hose isn't connected, the washer can still throw a 4E error during a cold cycle. Make sure both supply valves are open.
No — when the 4E code appears, the washer halts the cycle because it cannot fill with water. Running it in this state accomplishes nothing and the cycle won't progress. Resolve the water supply issue first.
If the cause is a closed valve, kinked hose, or clogged filter screen, the fix is free and takes about 10–15 minutes. If the washer's internal water inlet valve has failed, professional replacement typically runs $130–$210 in the Boston area, parts and labor included.
Almost never. 4E is a water supply error, not a sign of a failed drum, motor, or control board. In the large majority of cases it's resolved without any parts at all. Even a failed inlet valve is an inexpensive, routine repair.